2021 Keller Riesling Westhofen "Kirchspiel" Grosses Gewächs

The aromas here are enticing and boldly projected: iris, moss, basil and pit-inflected white peach. On the palate, there is gum-coating concentration and a satiny, rich texture, but at the same time, there's bright animation thanks to the tangy fresh-ness of white peach, now enhanced by lime. There’s also a paradoxical perception of density (what Keller would term “inner density”) allied to levity. Pepper and chalk dust add to the mouth-shaking vibrancy of the finish, but without overshadowing the wine’s richness of fruit or the somehow cooling aspect of herbs and bittersweet floral perfume. I don’t believe I’ve tasted a more alluring edition of Kirchspiel, and this one’s definitely more open and expressive today than Keller’s other chalk-informed Grosse Gewächse of this vintage.